Sunday, 8 September 2019

A day of reflection!

Le Quesnoy turned out to be further away than Google Maps had indicated but it was worth it.

It is a “fortified” city captured by the Germans in World War I and which was liberated by NZ soldiers on 4 November 1918 ending 4 years of occupation.

At the time there was a garrison of 1000 German soldiers in the city and they were ordered to withstand any attack. The Germans were given three opportunities to surrender and after the third refusal the Kiwis moved on the city gaining entry by climbing a ladder at the place where a monument to them now stands. Man after man climbed the ladder and after a street fight the Germans surrendered, the residents grateful that the town suffered no significant damage in the liberation.

As a consequence Le Quesnoy remains grateful to NZ and there are numerous reflections of that in the town.
An example of the fortification 
The monument to the NZers where they scaled the wall


Just outside the town is s very well maintained cemetery containing among others 50 graves of our men...p
..one of whom bore the surname of Sherry’s family and whether he is related will be determined once we get home.
With some pride we “signed” the visitors book before returning back to Vandeuil 
Kms driven today; 405




Saturday, 7 September 2019

IKEA

It took us until Reims to go into an IKEA store (didn’t see one in Scandinavia) and only then because we needed to replace a €2 item broken in the night.

The store was 2 floors and was set out so that you had to walk through all of it to get to the checkout. It included both a restaurant and also a cafe and by the time we got out the door we had walked 1.2kms - if a store like this is set up by IKEA when they enter the NZ market it would blow NZers away.
The centre also included other “mega” stores covering the whole range so it was a one stop environment albeit we did not notice a food hypermarket.

On the way back to Vandeuil we stopped off at Leclerc and gave the car a drink and did some grocery shopping (smart as the shops are closed the better part of tomorrow) and we then travelled on to Fismes a village around 11km up/down the road.

Apart from a very nice Hotel de Ville and a War Memorial there was not much to see there so we headed back to our nest among the vineyards.

The village we went to for dinner last night, Hermonville, also had a nice building which housed the Mairie. This is, or seems to be, a very prestigious position in a French community as we are told nothing happens without the express permission of the Mairie (Mayor)For such a small village (population 1480 in 2016) the restaurant provided fine dining and was a popular establishment given how busy it was. Tonight we have a booking for dinner at a restaurant in another village Coulonges-Cohan (pop. 436 in 2016) around 18 kms away.

Driving through this part of France is very pleasant with the rolling hills, ploughed fields, crop paddocks and vineyards and well maintained roads.

This morning I listened to the Warriors game on the radio and fellow Warriors supporter Lance, who I referenced in an early post, was rewarded this weekend by the team for his efforts in traveling to Canberra to watch them play!

Tomorrow weather permitting we intend to drive to Le Quesnoy some 100+kms north east of here and close to the Belgium border - this town we understand has has a monument to NZ soldiers who liberated the city in WW1.

Kms driven today:64

Friday, 6 September 2019

Reams

Well that is how we pronounce Reims but if we say that here no one has a clue where we mean - the correct pronunciation is something like Rarns (like barns).

Anyway we drove into Reims today for a look around but not before I took the following photo looking out to the vineyard
Reims is dominated by the Cathedral (Notre-Dame De Reims) which was built in the French Gothic style in the years 1211-1275 and was used for the coronations of numerous Kings of France the first being Louis VII Le Bon in 1223. It is a massive structure covering 71,600sq ft with 2 towers 81m high, in the south tower there are two bells one of which weighs more than 10,000 kilograms, and the cathedral receives about one million visitors annually.


The city itself is flat and well laid out in much the same way as was Dijon, pedestrian areas, streets at right angles to each other and of course the mandatory statues and water features.
Joan of Arc
One thing that we noticed was how cheap the parking was - €5 for approximately 4 hours in a central city covered car park.

Last evening we went to a neighbouring village for dinner, Jonchery-sur-Vesle - we deliberately went there early and had a walk around and we were very taken with the style of houses particularly in Rue de La Gare. Having been used to seeing a similar style all through France - one or two storeys high in a light brown coloured concrete/cement - it was nice to see something different 
This house was like something out of a fairytale story

Tonight we go to another village - Hermonville - around 10kms away to try a restaurant there. What we have found is that if you don’t reserve a table particularly in smaller villages you are likely to arrive and have to move on. Even in Dijon, a city blessed with 100s of restaurants we saw 10s of couples turned away from restaurants we were in as they hadn’t made a booking and there didn’t seem to be a second sitting time available - one restaurant that we went to twice, Le Bouchon du Palais, was only open from 7pm to 9pm.

Kms driven today: 68


 

Thursday, 5 September 2019

Champagne

We said our goodbyes to Coco this morning in Dijon and started our drive north around 10.15. The drive was almost solely on one of the A motorways beginning with a 3 lane stretch and reducing to 2 lanes for the better part of 2 thirds of the trip.

With schools having restarted the density of traffic on the motorway was as low as we have ever experienced and that meant that the motorway rest stops were far less crowded.

The drive was through lovely countryside with crop paddocks as far as the eye could see interspersed with rows of “windmills” feeding power into the grid
Arrived at Vandeuil around 2.30 and checked into our accommodation which is in a delightful village surrounded by vineyards - there are at least 3 champagne houses in the village and our hosts run one of them.

It is too difficult to describe the environment so the following photos will paint the scene

Our accommodation is in this building 


Our hosts
View from the accommodation including trusty 3008
Looking back towards village - accommodation to right in line with road 
Local fire station 
A local garden 
Our fridge has numerous bottles of champagne available to be drunk should we wish but it does come at a price!

Kms Driven today: 320

Wednesday, 4 September 2019

No issues with...

... the Peugeot which fired first time and so it should being less than 2 months old and only been driven by a couple of oldies for 2988kms!

With tomorrow being moving day it was a day for tidying up some loose ends - the washing was put through the machine and set out to dry in the apartment on a clothes horse, in the morning it was back to a couple of shops in the city where potential purchases had been noted and then after lunch back on the tram to Toison d’Or to put the finishing touches on the shopping. If we were given €1 for every shop we had been in on this trip I think that we would be “cash flow accretive” by now!

Tomorrow we have a 300km plus drive north to Vandeuil which is in the Champagne region near to Reims and Epernay, where our accommodation is on a working vineyard so that should be different and something to look forward to.

8 nights there and then it is on to Paris for 3 nights before we are on the aluminum pencil and start the haul home with a 3 night stopover in Singapore (which will be lively as it is Formula One weekend starting the day after we leave).

Kms driven today:0

Tuesday, 3 September 2019

Dijon almost done

Today is the 2nd to last day we are in Dijon as on Thursday we move further north into the Champagne region.

Tuesday market was on our early agenda - the markets never fail to disappoint as they are an excellent insight into normal French life. There is banter between the stall holder and the shopper, there are those who think it their god given right to walk straight to the front of the queue and there are hundreds of others pulling a trolley or carrying their “sacs” of fruit, veggies and meats & fish.

Our accommodation doesn’t come with parking so the 3008 has sat in a nearby street on free parking as a few of the streets are. We haven’t used it since arriving 9 days ago so every second or third day we walk by it to make sure it is still there and free of any parking ticket and we did so again this morning - all was well, thankfully, but tomorrow we will turn the motor over so we can be sure that on Thursday there is no ugly surprise.

While googling we realised that there was a shopping mall on the outskirts of the city accessible by tram so this afternoon we took said tram to Toison d’Or and arrived at a very modern (and large) shopping centre

In the Toison d’Or there was the largest (by far) of any hypermarket we have ever seen. It was a Carrefour store of enormous proportions even including 9 food stores/small restaurants. One almost needed a map to determine what products were in each aisle and at checkout there was a staff member advising the checkout number we should go to.

Outside I took a couple of photos and as I was walking away I was “accosted” by a security guard who insisted I delete the photos - he stood beside me as I deleted the last photo I took and satisfied he walked away without realising I had a couple of others.


After a couple of hours and a reviver at Starbucks it was back on the tram to the city - what a pity that Auckland doesn’t have such a system as they are very efficient and relaxing to ride on and at €1.70 a ticket good for an hours travel, even on a different tram and/or bus, very inexpensive.

Last night as we returned from a restaurant there was a very “unique” thin cloud in the sky above Dijon (it was not a plane contrail as there was one of those visible to the north of the city)
If we were to emigrate to France then Dijon is certainly a city that would be high on our list - we doubt whether we have seen a more livable city.

Kms driven today:0



Monday, 2 September 2019

1 out of 8 ain’t too bad!

Since arriving in Copenhagen over 2 months ago we have used the train system 8 times and trams in StE around 10-12 times and on only one occasion has our ticket been checked by a “conductor”, so either the transport companies are losing a heap of money or Europeans are incredibly honest.

Speaking of honesty again yesterday we saw a man drop some notes on the ground and start to walk off so we called him back - another grateful French person.

This morning we took the TER train to Besançon a town 70+kms from Dijon and a journey of just under an hour.
As we stopped at the various stations en route it brought home to us the number of “dead” and graffitied train carriages there must be sitting in sidings all around the world - it would make train travel more eye appealing if the companies disposed of them at the knackers yard at the end of their useful life.
Besançon was the same but different - there were some very nice buildings, the central area was surrounded by  water, there was a tram system throughout the town and as it was Monday many of the shops were shut!


oThere was even a NZ tattooist in town or someone who was using a marketing ploy - the examples of his work in the parlour certainly did not cry out MaoriA. manufacturing watchmakers window display made us stop and window shop for quite sometime as the feature clocks he makes were “mind blowing” and  at a cost of around €9000 wallet popping as well Mid afternoon it was back to the station and on another train this time to Dole another town typical of this area with tidy pedestrian walkways and a main street with well kept picturesque buildings but like many it was quite slumbering on a Monday.

A beautiful mural on a Dole building 
A walk around, a coffee near the church and then it was back to the station (1854 vintage) and onto a train to take us back to Dijon.
Another enjoyable day.

Kms driven today:0




Sunday, 1 September 2019

Journée du musée

There are two museums by the apartment - one Musee Magnin 3m from our back door and the other, Musee des Beaux Arts, 3 m from our front door so it was inevitable that we would visit them and we had programmed that for today as the weather was predicted to be wet (it wasn’t) and our landlady was calling in to change the linen this morning.

Both have superb displays. 

Musee Magnin is a private museum containing over 1500 pieces collected by Maurice & Jeanne Magnin through the late 1800s & which were left to the State with the proviso that the collection not be added to.


Between museum visits we walked to the railway station to purchase tickets for a day trip tomorrow and saw numerous Dijonnais including families taking part in Velotour which appeared to be a cycle ride through the streets of Dijon - the organized event was well patronised as we had seen many groups cycling throughout the morning.
On the way to the second museum we passed another bookstore filled with old books and while one could describe it as junky in fact  it was that which made it worth stopping and admiring......something else which made us stop were the “musicians” in the Beaux Arts courtyard entertaining the crowd utilizing the old fashion organ grinder type instrument The tune is determined by what notes are feed into the machine off the paper “trail” which can be seen on both sides of the unit in the aboveand which look like this.

It is impossible to describe the art displayed in the Beaux Arts other than most of the pieces are outstanding, mind blowing even considering how old and intricate some are

It was a very varied collection and covered “art” from around 300BC through to the 19th century with emphasis on both religious works and the Dukes of Burgundy.

Kms driven today:0